- From Wednesday 20 to Friday, October 22, 2010.
By Olivier
On Wednesday, October 20, anchored the main village of Ha'apai, we complete our provisioning for our journey of 1125 miles to the New Zealand. I visited yesterday the authorities Panga to get our clearance outlet.
We left the Bay of Pang for a small anchorage south of the island of Tofanga, about ten miles to the west. Tomorrow morning, if weather trends continue, we will win the north coast of Tofu, about thirty miles west of Ha'apai, to wait for 36 to 48 hours, announced the rotation of winds in east-southeast, which will allow us to proceed to the southwest. To New Zealand.
Tofua is an inhospitable island, a volcanic cone plunging directly into the sea
There is no sheltered anchorage, but by carefully studying the chart I have, I noticed the existence of a small rocky outcrop covered with about twenty meters water north of the island. If it exists, we should be able to drop anchor, preventing it from falling into one of the abysmal pits of the Pacific Ocean ...
This will be an anchor precarious course. Another, you say! But the interest of the trip is also at this price.
conditions seem conducive to exceptionally Tofua my little expedition, following in the footsteps of Captain Bligh.
I have long believed, this small historical detour, but in Tonga crews who asked me to meet our sailing program in recent times did not seem to understand the reasons for my interest and recurrent for this detour by Tofua uninviting. (The living is not just tofu, visit this island and its neighbor Kao is suggested in any guide navigation of Tonga.) Probably felt they does not even interest me in the history of maritime expeditions. They ignored Tofua likely that had taken place in the late eighteenth century, an episode marking the legendary mutiny on HMS Bounty.
One episode followed by a maritime feat little known but very real, growing all marine warned to look with one eye more nuanced than the common grades of moviegoers Marine Lieutenant William Bligh, disreputable, Commander the Bounty, but landed in force by the mutineers. Most sailors, let alone the general public who have not bothered to cross-check sources believe that the famous mutiny led by the handsome lieutenant Fletcher Christian (played successively by cinema Clark Gable, Marlon Brando or Mel Gibson) against the evil Captain William Bligh was held from Tahiti, where this is true, most of the sailors on the Bounty, remained more than 5 month call, had found soft ties with beautiful women and lascivious vahinées
... No, she would be in Tonga, about thirty miles off ... tofu! Both
tell you right away: the true story of the mutiny on the Bounty (its genesis, its reasons, its conduct, the distribution of marine vessel on the one hand, on the boat the other, then the result of this incredible saga, the Austral Islands first, then to Tahiti to Pitcairn on the one hand, on board the boat to Timor Bligh then Batavia on the other, and England finally court-martialled for Bligh first, then a minority of the crew, is infinitely more complex, and therefore exciting, the film has shown in its various interpretations. Similarly, the temperament and the true personality of the two main actors of this epic, Lieutenant Bligh (Commander) and the commanding officer of 3rd quarter Christian (at wrongly presented as Second Captain, position held on board by John Fryer, an officer removed it is true enough) are not as simple as the film chose to show it to seduce the public. In short, you'll understand that Fletcher Christian was not as nice, good, fair, and that it (he was later murdered by the Tahitians came to live with him in Pitcairn) and William Bligh was not as nasty, nasty and that bad: Not only will it be acquitted by the court martial of the British Admiralty, but he will be promoted to captain, will leave for Tahiti with the same mission (to bring back breadfruit plants - uru - to implant in the British colonies of the Atlantic, especially in Jamaica) two years later, his mission will succeed with two ships, will be welcomed by Admiral Nelson at the Battle of Copenhagen in 1801, will be appointed Governor of New South Wales (the largest province of Australia), then became vice-admiral
... But that would take too long to tell. Already know ...
But, after all, nobody is forced to read me!
Returning For those interested, the events of tofu.
Bligh wrote in "Relationship of the removal of the ship The Bounty" (original title: "A narrative of The mutiny on board His Majesty Ship The Bounty"), in short his story:
"I fit the O- Tahiti 4 April 1789, having on board 1,015 breadfruit plants, and several other fruit trees very precious of these countries, which we had gathered by a series of constant attention for five months and ten days, and were at the time of departure, in the state of the vegetation the more perfect.
April 11, I discovered an island ... This island is named Yeah by natural-tu-tacks (Aitutaki, Cook Islands). On the 24th we anchored at Annamouca (Nomuka, to Ha'apai, Tonga), one of the Friendly Islands, where we completed our stock of water and wood, and we set off again on 28 to 27 ... The evening Because of the wind too weak, we were not yet out of these islands, and tonight I did wear the cape to the island of Tofo (tofu). The Master (Fryer, mate) commanded the first quarter, the gunner (Peckover, master gunner, watch leader) than midnight, and Mr. Christian (officer, shift supervisor), one of the officers, the morning ; thus the tours of duty were set for that night.
Just before sunrise, Mr Christian with coxswain (Churchill, a violent, later murdered by the islanders in Tahiti), the second gunner (Mills, later murdered by the Tahitians to Pitcairn on board with rebels) and Burkitt sailor named Thomas (one of three sailors on the Bounty later sentenced to death and hanged by the Admiralty to the large yard of HMS Brunswick, October 20, 1792), entered my room while I slept again, they seized me, I garrottèrent hands behind his back, threatening me kill me instantly if I spoke or if I was the slightest noise ...
Christian had a sword in hand, others were armed with rifles with bayonets. They roused me from my bed, I dragged in his shirt on the forecastle, causing me great pain for me hands tied knots tight. I asked them the reason for this violence, but no reply, they threatened me to kill me instantly if I'm not silent. "
April 28, 1789 (at the time, counting down the days Mariners 12:00 to 12:00) 24 days after sailing from Tahiti, 30 miles southwest of tofu. : Bligh and 18 of his men landed in the boat on the Bounty, which, overloaded, no longer can count.
(You should know that historically, the real assets of the Bounty mutineers are not more than 7 or 8, on a crew of 45 persons, besides the Captain. 5 sailors would have liked more follow their captain on board the boat, which can receive and retain the Christian, he needs them on board the Bounty.)
Bligh:
"We let the bosun and sailors who were destined for the boat, the freedom to pick up the rope yarn, canvas, lines, sails, some ropes, a tierce containing about 98 pints of water, and took the carpenter's toolbox. Mr Samuel (accounting board) took a hundred and fifty pounds of biscuit and a small quantity of rum and wine. He also won a district to take the height and a compass, but he was forbidden under pain of death, to touch or card, or ephemeris, or book of astronomical observations, or sextant, clock, or any of my surveys or drawings.
... I asked a few weapons: they laughed at me, saying I did not need it ... However, after we had spun the boat from behind, we threw four swords. ...
Without further ceremony, holding me by the rope that tied my hands ... I was thrown off the edge strength, and then they untied my hands. As soon as I was in the boat, they spun us behind the vessel by means of a rope: we threw a few pieces of pork, some clothing, and swords which I have already mentioned.
... After making me suffer a thousand jokes and keeping me well for some time to be their toy, they finally left us unfit rebels go adrift on the great ocean. ... "
" It was essential to a party thinking: my first resolution was to get a supply of water and fruit bread in Tofo. ...
Wednesday April 29. ... We had won so much wind, using our oars, we were able to sail with a light breeze from the East that arose then. However, it was already nightfall when we arrived in Tofo, where I was flattered to land, but the ribs found themselves so steep and so full of rocks, I was obliged to abandon this project and keep me all night under the lee of the island, supported by two oars, for there was no anchorage. Having ordered accordingly, I served to each man a half-pint of grog, and each gave as much as he could, rest our sad situation allowed to take.
the morning at daybreak, we followed the coast to find a landing location, it was not until ten o'clock or so, we discovered a rocky cove in the northwest of the Island: I threw the hook to twenty fathoms distant rocks. The blade is heavily deployed ashore. ... I watched this
Cove 19 ° 41 'South latitude. It is located in the north-west of Tofo, the most northwest of the islands of Friends.
... ... We landed and we entered the island, after being hoisted on top of a cliff in taking us to lianas that the natives of the place had been fixed there to purposely, and it was the only path by where one could enter the country. ...
around the country who is covered with lava and offers the most sorry.
... In the bottom of the cove, there was a remote cave about seventy yards from the seashore, where he had a width of about fifty yards from the rocks that lined the shore, and the only passage through which one could come to us from inside the island, was the one I described: this situation put us in the shelter of a surprise and I resolved to spend the night ashore with some of my people, to leave more space for others to sleep at home in the boat with the Master. I ordered this officer stand on one to grab and make the quarter to prevent an attack.
... I stared around for the night shift and those who were not on duty went to bed to sleep in the cave. We kept a good fire in front of the entrance. "
Bligh and his men stayed five days in the Bay of Tofu, from 29 April to 3 May 1789, trying to build, painstakingly, water and supplies. Gradually, relations with the island, more and more numerous, deteriorated, until the denouement.
"This position was not smiling for long, the Indians began coming in droves and I fancied he was going against us something. Soon after, they attempted to haul the boat ashore, I threatened Ifaou (one of the leaders of the island) lifted the sword, to force by then to make them let go, I am successful and all was quiet.
... I continued to buy the few fruits that brought us bread and a few spears to arm my world, for we had all weapons that four swords, two of them remained in the boat. As we had no way to improve our position I informed my world I would expect the sunset, hoping that this time we could find some way to get out of trouble. I tell them that we could not go into at this moment, we see no forced break this whole fighting, which would be more feasible at night, that by then we would try to pick up gradually in the launch everything we bought. The shore was lined with Indians, and was heard on all sides the sound of stones which they held in each hand, striking against each other and I knew that this signal for the attack.
...
soon as dinner was over, we began gradually to move our belongings into the boat, it was a difficult task due to strong waves, which were spread along the coast. I watched closely the movements of the Indians, whose number was still rising ... They took counsel together and showed me everything that we would be attacked. I sent orders to Master to hold the boat ashore accosted when we would go down, so that we could all embark promptly.
... The sun was ready to lie down when I gave the word to start ... we got ready at the moment to attack ... I ordered the carpenter to stay with me until all the others were on board. We all entered into the boat with the exception of one sailor, as I was getting into, jumped down and went to the mooring stern dismasted, despite the cries made to induce him to return The Master and the people of the crew who helped me out of the waves to enter the boat.
Scarcely was I on board two hundred or so, began the attack, the unfortunate man who was on the ground, was knocked out, and stones began to fly like hail.
Several Indians seized the mooring stern to try to pull the boat ashore, and they would certainly come if I did not lightly cut the rope with a knife I had in my pocket. We halama immediately on the hook, each of us is already more or less injured. I live in now five Indians around the unfortunate sailor they had killed, and two of them beat her head with rocks they had in their hands.
... I saw them fill their canoes with stones, and twelve men come to us to renew the fight, and they did so vigorously that they had almost come to us after intermission.
... We took off with our paddles. But the Indians paddled all around us, and we were obliged to receive their shots without being able to retaliate with stones that fell into the boat, and in this respect, the game was very uneven.
... Seeing this, I imagined the ruse to throw overboard some clothes, losing time to pick them up, night fell, they abandoned their pursuit and returned to earth, and left us free to think our sad condition.
The man whom I had lost was John Norton, was his second trip with me as quartermaster, and was a great topic (and a hell of a template, it seems) that loss has been very sensitive. He left an aged father, so I was told, to whom he gave help. "
Bligh then compares the attack Tofua it comes to live with the one he suffered in Hawaii a few years ago, when the death of the famous Captain James Cook (properly, if we might say, cut into pieces).
"Here I was unarmed, and the Indians knew and we were very lucky they had not started the attack while we were in the cave, in which case, our loss would have been inevitable and there we would have stayed else to do but to fight, ready to close and sell our lives dearly, what I had found each fully resolved to assist me. ...
We were sailing along the strip west of the island of Tofo, and I thought about it was more convenient to make, when all gathered and asked me to bring them back to our homeland.
I tell them that we had no hope for relief to the island of Timor, far away from us more than 1200 miles, where he is a Dutch settlement ...
Thereupon they agreed all to live with an ounce of cookie and an eighth of a pint of water per day. I made the visit to our store of food, and having recommended to be faithful to this promise, as the most sacred oath, we came to the open sea
We
entreprîmes therefore, in a boat open, long only 21 feet 9 inches, 18 men and carrying overloaded, with no map, and with only the aid of geographical knowledge that my memory could provide me ... we started, I say , through this vast sea including navigation is almost unknown.
I found myself very happy in this position alarming, that all my companions in misfortune were less affected than me. "
48 days later, Bligh and his 17 companions arrived, albeit in a pitiful state, lean and hungry but alive, on arrival, after overcome many dangers. Bravo all the same (ugly) Mr Bligh, to have achieved this high because of shipping.
must, on this point, you justice.
You had, whatever people may say, talent, and courage.
Because Tofua link to Timor, a distance of 1,206 nautical leagues, this is still a journey of 3,618 nautical miles or 6700 kilometers ... Without chart.
And 21 feet 9 inches for an open boat open to the wind and the sea, it is only 6.63 meters in length.
Width 6 feet 4 inches, or 1.93 meter.
With 18 men on board, the freeboard of the boat was only 20 centimeters ...
Bligh has brought all his men safely.
With the exception of poor Norton of course, killed by the islanders in the cove northwest of Tofu, heckled at the apparatus of the boat.
Bligh was then 35 years, the two young sailors in the boat 17 years, the two eldest aged 42.
Whatever the merits and faults of Captain William Bligh as commander, was undoubtedly also a good Marine. My personal belief is that the testing of the mutiny he experienced, having probably largely aroused, had to do with him thereafter, and from the boat journey to Timor, a leader of a pretty stamp, which necessarily had to think long and the art of controlling the men. And change its ways.
How exciting story! For all the incredible ingredients of myth are combined.
Interested? At least read the trilogy, although fictional, but above all well documented by Charles Nordhoff and James Norman Hall in Phoebus.
And we board our catamaran sailors modest and unknown, some two hundred years later, we are only ten marine leagues of Tofu, in the middle of the Pacific!
Not to procrastinate, we're just not there to cultivate the regrets!
Here we go! Cap on tofu!
Thursday, October 21. We leave the Ha'apai, are heading north-west, the massive volcanic cone that faces us. The wind is almost zero, we move to the engine. We see in the distance a whale blowing at the surface. An hour later, we just avoid the collision with another animal. Or more accurately, the monster, which crosses through to us, dives under the boat in extremis, even before I could throw myself on the engine controls. These large animals are much more clever than their impressive body may suggest. Humpback whales are fond of the west of Tonga. In early afternoon, we drive along the coast north of Tofua a few tens of meters. The eye on the sounder, I watch the recovery of funds that would confirm the existence of language submerged rock on which I hope to be anchored. I'm not really a backup solution, waiting to sail to New Zealand, but must first wait until the tide is turning for us to be more favorable. Fingers crossed ... Some
minutes later, the rock is well advanced at the rendezvous, there beneath our wings, and making several comings and goings from the unit, I located a proper anchorage for 18/20 meters deep. Not really sheltered, but very welcome.
However, we continue our journey north-west of the island. I have an aerial photo that shows the existence of three bays in the north-west of tofu. We drive along the coast a short distance, and I warn my people that most likely is that the first loop is indeed that of the sloop the Bounty. I reread the descriptions of Bligh noting every detail, the assumption is both more consistent with the text, but also with what I see on the aerial photo.
Jangada crosses the northwestern tip of tofu, and the little creek gently opens our eyes. The surf breaks violently. We see immediately the black spot in a cave in the vertical wall at the foot of the cliff. My pulse quickens, my belief is strengthened. Access to the bottom of the loop is as described by Bligh: not easy. Even with a southeast wind. Needless to imagine the show by the west wind ...
To remove any doubt, we continue to open the other two small loops visible on the aerial image, to the west end of Tofua .. But no doubt is possible, these two small cracks in the line of coast are overcome by impassable vertical walls of several tens of meters high.
We return to the cove northwest. The handle of the Loyalists sailors on the Bounty.
I can not help but make a few ripples in the water in the cove.
I observe. And I think.
There, before our eyes in this small bay inhospitable, the 18 men landed force on the boat on the Bounty with their captain stayed five days, there is a little over two centuries, before undertaking an incredible journey by sea in the western Pacific.
And John Norton, the solid quarter-master of 36 years which, in good sailor, was not like cutting ropes, died there on the rocks, beaten to death by the Tongan island of stones.
What have they done to her body? Nobody knows.
In this regard, do you know that a journalist named Luis Marsden that can be described - with little risk of committing an appalling mistake - the royal fool, saw fit to write, in March 1968, an article in National Geographic Magazine, stating that he had located, supporting photographs, and the cove where the cave had stayed Bligh and his men, on the southeast coast of tofu! Yes, south-east! At the exact opposite of historical truth, and logic maritime sailors. He even, in its total lack of ethics, describe a tomb which he attributed to John Norton ...! In short, his seamanship was to be like his honesty, kept to a minimum because the shore south-east coast of Tofua is exposed to winds, it is thus defeated by the waves. Simply reading notes Bligh (who reported on several occasions during his stay in Tofua a sustained wind of south-east) would have to go do exactly the opposite of the island ... As a tomb attributed to the unfortunate Norton I do not think I am right in saying that this concern does not touch the spirit of one second Tofua island in 1789. The most likely hypothesis is that, according to the customs of the time, his body had to be cut up and distributed among the chiefs of the island, as a trophy of battle, if not partially ate ... No one will ever know, it is better to refrain from any conclusive statement about this. Like what, even a great magazine generally deemed genuine can print anything ...
I note in passing, reading the screen of our GPS, as Captain Bligh did wrong that a little more than one arc minute (2 km) by calculating the latitude of the loop of Tofu.
is a very good accuracy, the justification is probably the fact that having spent several days in this place, he had to make several readings of the height of the sun when what is known in the meridian celestial navigation. This record, the only day that is independent of the precise measurement of time (the observer is content to wait for the solar disk rises and falls corresponding maximum angular height, before performing the calculations of spherical trigonometry) , had to be used to stall the Bligh few instruments at its disposal, including Peckover's watch, the master-gunner, who served until it stops, a little less than a month later.
Jangada We will anchor in the area previously identified, and with Marin, we're going on schedule to close the loop. But our attention is attracted by a blast of whale that sprays a few tens of meters. We decided to approach it, and find a humpback whale (humpback whale) adult who swims with her calf. We follow a time, they did not seem frightened by our presence unobtrusive.
We return to the ship to ship and Adelie Barbara, who warned, following the animals through binoculars for several minutes. We flippers, masks and snorkels. We soon find
these peaceful giants meet in the calm waters downwind of tofu. The mother as a small twenty meters, 16 to 18 say the calf 5 to 6 meters. More accustomed to eating krill in the cold waters of Antarctica, Humpback whales back in the tropics of farrowing and the first weeks of life in their small, before undertaking the long journey back to the sixtieth. Calves, to live, must learn to grow up quickly.
front of us, the young animal performs some jumps specific to this case. I guess he had to watch his mother. He did not leave more than a few meters, and the graceful ballet has something magical. We approach very near, engine off and see the clear water in the immense body of the mother, almost vertical, which pushes the calf's muzzle to the surface. Sometimes we find ourselves above the animals, and I am forced to restart the engine swiftly to get away a little.
Marin wants to jump into the water, but it's a bit of apprehension. I encourage him, telling him that these animals, despite their size, are not naturally aggressive, and they show great precision swimming. When I told him that he will perhaps not twice in a lifetime opportunity to swim a few meters a whale about 20 feet, he decided, and dives. It will
several minutes in the water near the animals, though we can detect in them the slightest movement of discomfort caused by our presence.
few moments I jump into the water, and take from those few seconds near a giant a strong sense of humility. The inordinate eye of the whale, especially, sparkles with intelligence, watching me a few yards away. Impressive.
Adelie also launches, but when she was in the water, it gets scared and goes.
Barbara is fascinated, she puts her mask and fins and will look more closely at the magnificent spectacle.
giant and gave us little more than an hour of unforgettable natural spectacle.
Night falls on the island-volcano tofu.
The silhouette of our sailboat at anchor in one of these deserted places, stands out against the skyline.
It is too late to land in the Cove Norton (I call and now too small, it bears no name on the card, but it seems normal to give it that name). This will be tomorrow.
the night the wind shifted, with a few hours ahead of schedule, east-southeast. I am informed by the work of the chain, which noisily wart on the bottom rocks, while the angle of pull is altered by the change of wind direction.
As expected, tomorrow we will sail to New Zealand. This is the beginning of the slot wind that we were told several days ago by Guru of Meteorology of New Zealand Bob Mc Davitt.
The sun rises over our anchorage precarious. Quickly swallow a bowl of coffee and we start with Marin to Cove Norton. We identify the places, then I arrived and remains in the annex at some distance from the surf.
I found a path to the black rocks where the boat should be moored by the stern, with a hook on the front. These same rocks on which I can imagine the violent images of the last moments of life of the quartermaster of the Bounty.
And, about fifty yards away, I find myself in front of the cave where the crew stayed loyal sailors of Captain Bligh. The sea is deposited driftwood, boulders and uprooted from the cliff storms from the west.
I spend a few moments to imagine the scenes that have taken place.
Then I go back on strike, just happy being here so far.
Marin gets me, we go on board and prepare for the crossing Jangada ahead.
Towards 10H00, everything is ready. We note the anchor with difficulty, we must return to the water to understand the complicated trajectory of the chain in the rocks, following the turning of the night, and maneuver accordingly.
She finally break free.
Whales are invisible this morning. Long life to you ...
We spend one last time before the little cove Norton, and send the web.
Hi, Captain Bligh!
Road to Aotearoa, the land of the long white cloud. Olivier
The wetting Nomuka, the Ha'apai (Tonga), where the Bounty was released just before the mutiny.
The northwest coast of tofu, basically, the volcano Kao.
The island volcano of Tofu with, at the northwest end, flush with the frame, the small cove Norton.
Cove Norton and the Cave of sailors on the Bounty, clearly visible in the rock wall.
The boat was anchored on a grappling hook from the front. One line placed on a rock holding her to the ground from behind.
The area around the cave of the Bounty sailors did not change much for 221 years ...
The black rocks of the cove Norton where was moored the boat on the Bounty. This is where the quartermaster John Norton was killed.
Only at anchor Tofua, Jangada receives the visit, and not any!
Humback whale, adult female, about 20 meters long ...
At this point, the whale, which blows air to breathe her, moving in little over 20 feet of water.
Under the watchful eye of her mother, the calf trains the aquatic dance of humpback whales.
Marino decided he dives! Swimming with whales!
Once the initial apprehension defeated the animal, like man, quickly become accustomed to each other.
Bye bye, beautiful animal, and bon voyage to Antarctica with your latest!
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